斯洛文尼亚土地与山海的承诺考察手记

“唯一合乎伦理的选择，是为我们自身及下一代的生存承担责任。”

——比尔·莫利森

从奥地利往南，山峦连绵铺展，地理意义上的施蒂里亚余脉一直延伸至斯洛文尼亚境内。申根区边境通行自由，相似的山地地貌模糊了国与国的边界，若不细细分辨，几乎察觉不到已经跨越国境。抬眼望去，群山愈发迫近，天穹显得辽远澄澈，散落的村落安卧在山谷之间。我们一路行至马里博尔近郊的波霍尔耶山麓，穿过波德拉夫错落起伏的葡萄山坡，最终抵达亚得里亚海北端的伊斯特拉半岛。

地貌从山地逐步过渡到海岸，眼前风物不断变换，但土地之上，农人对自然的那份承诺始终未曾动摇。受欧盟邀请，穿行于这片山海之间，让我对“选择”“承诺”与“责任”这些时常被提及的词语，生出更加具象、真切的体会。这份承诺，并非执着于年年丰产的丰收神话，而是希望在人、土地与漫长时间之间，构筑一段彼此敬畏、不轻辜负的长久联结。

承诺的起点：土地、工艺、人和制度

这份人与土地的联结，并非只依靠信念与自觉维系。欧盟成熟的原产地保护制度，为这份土地的约定，提供了一套可读、可核验的现实语言。原产地保护（PDO）要求产品的全部原料、加工乃至制备流程，都必须在划定的地理范围内完成，守护产品与一方水土之间不可割裂的内在羁绊；地理标志保护（PGI）认可产品的品质、声誉与特定地域深度绑定，同时允许部分生产环节在划定区域之外实施。欧盟有机认证则从另一个角度保证品质，它不为“在地性”背书，而是为生产方式划定边界：限制合成投入品，禁止转基因，强调生态循环、动物福利与全过程的可核查性。

对斯洛文尼亚这样山海并存、产区小而多样的国家而言，这套语言尤其重要。它不消解特殊，也不抹平界限；它承认差异、界定差异，并让这些差异经得起时间与市场的检验。这些印在酒瓶、油瓶标签之上的标识，绝非简单的营销符号。它拒绝将“风土”包装成玄虚缥缈的概念，而是把土壤特质、气候风向、适种品种、采收标准、酿造工艺一一落实为清晰规则。它回答了一个最朴素的问题：眼前这瓶酒、这罐橄榄油，何以真正属于这片土地。它不会强求所有产品拥有一模一样的风味，却要求每一种风土表达，都有据可依、有源可溯。

于是，当我们随后走进波霍尔耶山麓的菜园、波德拉夫的葡萄坡和伊斯特拉海边的橄榄园时，看到的就不只是风景与产品，而是一套由土地、工艺、人和制度共同作出的承诺。

波霍尔耶山麓：让季节重新决定餐桌

车驶进马里博尔的波霍尔耶山麓，我们来到一座面积只有十八公顷的有机农场。这里没有宏大的生产线，菜园、果树、香草、动物和厨房却紧紧相连。起伏的山坡并不容易耕作，农庄仍保留了一块相对平坦的地形，让菜园与玉米田依次展开。山林气与烟火气在此交织，生生不息，亲切温暖得就像庄主夫妇脸上洋溢的笑容。

蔬菜、水果、香草与肉类，从土地经过厨房，直接来到盘中。路径如此短，关系也因此清楚：一顿饭的滋味，不该只归功于厨师，也来自此前漫长而安静的种植、饲养、等待与照料。

这里的菜单由季节书写，厨房不再有权要求农庄在任何时候供应同一种味道。对习惯了以技术改造自然、以品类齐全为价值目标的现代供应链而言，这是一种温和的提醒：真正的丰富，不是随时拥有一切，而是在恰当的时节得到最适合的东西。

这座农庄也经历过集约化耕作的时代。上世纪末，主人决定将生产方式转向有机；2010年，又进一步将业态界定为朴门永续农业。永续农业由比尔·莫利森（Bill Mollison）和大卫·霍尔姆格伦（David Holmgren）于20世纪70年代提出，并在他们1978年合著的《永续农业一号》（Permaculture One）中加以介绍。永续农业倡导综合性农业系统，使土地、植物、动物、人与经济活动以互惠互利的方式相互作用，从而支持生态平衡和长期可持续性。

这种生产方式的可贵之处，恰在于它承认边界。它未必能以规模取胜，却把价值锁定在一种合适的尺度：每一块土地能承受多少，每一种资源应当留下多少，每一个经营决定又会给下一代带来什么。与此同时，主人向我们解释了欧盟有机认证背后健全的管控与监测体系。检查、生产记录核查和可追溯性，帮助验证是否符合欧盟有机标准。我们亲眼所见的照料，为这些标准提供了可触摸的场景；持续的核查则赋予认证以可信度。信任不仅建立在访客所见之上，更建立在生产者必须证明自己达到的要求之上。

马里博尔的葡萄坡：风土与时间的兑现

抵达中欧名城马里博尔之前，我们先来到一大片离城区半小时车程的葡萄园。斯洛文尼亚施蒂里亚葡萄酒属于波德拉夫产区，尤以长相思、霞多丽、黄麝香以及希蓬（Sipon）等品种酿制的白葡萄酒著名。

矿物质土壤、白日充足的光照与夜晚凉爽的清风，让葡萄在恬适而缓慢的成熟过程中，保留住足够的酸度与香气。葡萄园朴实的主人没有把风土讲得过于玄妙。在他看来，种植与酿造首先是一种可观察的农业事实：昼夜温差影响成熟节奏，坡地与通风关系到病害压力，采收时点决定糖度、酸度与香气之间的取舍。

对于原产地保护（PDO）而言，认证的意义也正在这里。它并不是替每一瓶酒保证同一种口味，而是确认它的表达不能脱离这片土地。标准不替风土发言，也不代替酿酒师做选择；它只是要求每一种选择都不得假借风土之名，背离风土之实。

离开葡萄园，我们来到马里博尔旧城的地下酒窖。漫长的隧道收藏着年份酒，也收藏着关于劳动、贸易与城市生活的故事。酒窖并不故作神秘：它既是让市民与游客停留、聚会的空间，也通过管道与外部世界相连。酒从地下出发，抵达地面，抵达餐桌，抵达远方。

无论种植还是酿造，仅有“悠久的历史”并不够。最值得尊重的历史，在于它所创造的一切今天是否仍有生命力：是否仍能被分享和品鉴，是否仍能被后来的人继续兑现。时间从不自动赋予价值；被一代代人认真接续的时间，才会。

伊斯特拉海岸：从风土表达走向再生农业

我们终于告别施蒂里亚山区，向亚得里亚海驶去。经过此行最漫长的一段路，抵达斯洛文尼亚伊斯特拉的塞查半岛。海风、盐田和南坡共同塑造了这里的光线与景象。想到北亚得里亚海另一侧的威尼斯，便不免生出沧海桑田之感。

橄榄树连绵的坡地俯瞰着湛蓝而安静的海面，以及广阔整齐的盐田。农场主人告诉我们，盐田不只构成视觉的美意，也是当地微气候不可或缺的部分。她相信，这份影响留在橄榄树的生长和果实的味道里：不仅留在以伊斯特拉白橄榄（Istrska Belica）为代表的本土品种中，也留在莱奇诺（Leccino）等引入品种中。它们共同构成伊斯特拉海岸产区的在地性，也共同构成它的多样性。

这里的橄榄油拥有欧盟PDO身份，意味着这个小而精的产区与高品质橄榄油之间，存在着一种必须被守护的关系。除了风土，品种选择、采摘时间、压榨速度和储存方式的管理，也都是产区独特性的一部分。所谓原产地，从来不是把土地神秘化，而是承认土地、工艺与人之间长期形成的相互塑造。

按照农场主的说法，果园中发生的一切，都决定橄榄能否健康地抵达压榨机。覆盖作物、香草和有益植物为昆虫提供栖息地，野生植被不被轻易清除；修剪枝条与参观活动产生的有机废弃物被堆肥或覆盖回田；以真菌为主的自制堆肥提升微生物活性；太阳能泵用于灌溉，节水与防止水土流失被写进日常操作。

这些做法看上去并不惊天动地，却让“再生农业”有了可触摸的含义：它不只要求少伤害一点，而是尽可能让土壤、微生物、水分、植物与动物之间的关系重新活起来。产品品质由此不再只是压榨间里最后几小时的结果，它是果园在一年又一年中积累出来的健康。

当农场主无奈地讲起异常高温会影响当年收成与油脂提炼，我们习惯性地问：“有什么解决措施？”她笑着耸耸肩：“祈祷，来年会好。”这句话并不消极，反倒令我印象深刻。它承认农业不是一套可以完全控制的工程，也承认人在自然面前必须保有谦卑。真正的可持续，不是倔强地维持原样，更不是强行改造一切，而是让系统在变化中仍保有恢复力。

从波霍尔耶山麓的菜园，到波德拉夫的葡萄坡；从马里博尔的酒窖，到伊斯特拉海边的橄榄园，最令我印象深刻的是：在一系列严格而复杂的认证标准之下，出现的并不是一套整齐划一的欧洲农业模板。

作为中国食品行业的服务者、媒体人和协会成员，我因此重新思考认证与标准的价值。它不在于消解特殊，不在于抹平界限；相反，它在于承认差异、界定差异，并让这些差异经得起时间与市场的检验。PDO守住不可替代的产区关联，有机认证将生产方式置于环境与伦理的约束之中，它们共同构成信任的基础框架，也共同构筑了土地与山海所许下的承诺。

承诺不是保证每一次收成都丰盛，不是保证气候永远温和，也不是保证付出劳动便可以免于风险。

它所承诺的，是只要人们愿意以克制、耐心和诚实去承担责任，在每一次生产、每一次选择和每一份标准里，不是求胜于土地，而是帮助土地保留继续丰盈的养分，那么我们的下一代，再下一代将永远拥有一个值得依赖的、山海无限的世界。

“Irresistible Europe, Countless Combinations” Press Trip Notes

In Slovenia, the Promise of Land, Mountains and Sea

“The only ethical decision is to take responsibility for our own existence and that of our children.”

Bill Mollison

Heading south from Austria, mountains unfold in continuous ridges, and the geographical extension of Styria reaches into Slovenia. Within the Schengen Area, borders are open, and similar mountain landscapes blur the boundaries between countries; unless one looks carefully, it is almost impossible to notice that a national border has been crossed. Looking up, the mountains press closer, the sky seems vast and clear, and scattered villages rest quietly in the valleys. We traveled to the foothills of Pohorje near Maribor, crossed the undulating vineyard slopes of Podravje, and finally reached the Istrian peninsula at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea.

The landscape gradually transitions from mountains to coast; the scenery before our eyes keeps changing, but on the land, the farmers' promise to nature has never wavered. Invited by the EU, traveling through this land between mountains and sea gave me a more concrete and vivid understanding of words often mentioned: "choice," "commitment," and "responsibility." This promise is not a myth of abundant harvest year after year, but a desire to build a long-term bond of mutual reverence and no easy betrayal between people, land and time.

The Starting Point of Commitment:

 Land, Craft, People and Institutions

This bond between people and land is not maintained by faith and self-awareness alone. The EU's mature origin protection system provides a readable and verifiable language of reality for this promise of the land. Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) requires that all raw materials, processing and even preparation of a product be completed within a defined geographical area, safeguarding the inseparable inner bond between the product and a particular place; Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recognizes that a product's quality, reputation and specific region are deeply bound, while allowing some production stages to take place outside the defined area. EU organic certification guarantees quality from another angle; it does not endorse "localness" but draws boundaries for production methods: restricting synthetic inputs, prohibiting GMOs, and emphasizing ecological cycles, animal welfare and verifiability throughout the process.

For a country like Slovenia, where mountains and sea coexist and production areas are small and diverse, this language is especially important. It does not dissolve particularity or erase boundaries; it acknowledges differences, defines differences, and makes these differences stand the test of time and the market. These labels printed on wine bottles and oil bottles are by no means simple marketing symbols. They refuse to package "terroir" as a mysterious, ethereal concept; instead, they translate soil characteristics, climate and wind direction, suitable varieties, harvest standards and winemaking processes into clear rules. They answer the most basic question: why does this bottle of wine, this tin of olive oil, truly belong to this land? They do not require all products to have exactly the same flavor, but they require every expression of terroir to be grounded and traceable.

So when we later walked into the vegetable garden at the foothills of Pohorje, the vineyard slopes of Podravje, and the olive groves by the Istrian coast, what we saw was not only scenery and products, but a promise jointly made by land, craft, people and institutions.

The Foothills of Pohorje: Let the Seasons Decide the Table Again

As the car drove into the foothills of Pohorje near Maribor, we came to an organic farm of only eighteen hectares. There is no grand production line here, but the vegetable garden, fruit trees, herbs, animals and kitchen are tightly connected. The rolling slopes are not easy to cultivate, yet the farm still keeps a relatively flat piece of land where the vegetable garden and cornfield unfold in turn. The spirit of the forest and the warmth of daily life interweave here, endlessly alive, as kind and warm as the smiles on the faces of the farmer couple.

Vegetables, fruits, herbs and meat travel from the land through the kitchen and directly into the plate. The path is so short, and the relationship is therefore clear: the taste of a meal should not be credited only to the chef; it also comes from the long, quiet planting, raising, waiting and caring that came before.

The menu here is written by the seasons; the kitchen no longer has the right to demand that the farm supply the same flavor at any time. For a modern supply chain accustomed to transforming nature through technology and valuing complete product categories, this is a gentle reminder: true abundance is not having everything at any time, but getting what is most suitable at the right season.

This farm also went through an era of intensive farming. At the end of the last century, the owners decided to shift production to organic; in 2010, they further defined the business as permaculture. . Developed by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren in the 1970s and introduced in their co-authored book Permaculture One, published in 1978, permaculture promotes integrated farming systems in which land, plants, animals, people and economic activities interact in mutually beneficial ways, supporting ecological balance and long-term sustainability.

The value of this production method lies precisely in its acknowledgment of boundaries. It may not win by scale, but it locks value into an appropriate measure: how much each piece of land can bear, how much of each resource should be left, and what each business decision will bring to the next generation. Alongside this approach, the farmer explained the robust control and monitoring system behind EU organic certification. Inspections, checks of production records and traceability help verify compliance with EU organic standards. The care we witnessed gave those standards a tangible setting; the ongoing verification gives certification its credibility. Trust rests not only on what a visitor can see, but on requirements that producers must demonstrate they meet.

The Vineyard Slopes of Maribor:Terroir and Time Redeemed

Before arriving in Maribor, a well-known Central European city, we first came to a large vineyard half an hour's drive from the city. Slovenian Styrian wines belong to the Podravje region, especially known for white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Yellow Muscat and Sipon.

Mineral soils, ample sunlight during the day and cool breezes at night allow the grapes to preserve enough acidity and aroma during a comfortable and slow ripening process. The plain-spoken owner of the vineyard did not describe terroir in overly mysterious terms. In his view, growing and winemaking are first of all observable agricultural facts: day-night temperature differences affect the rhythm of ripening, slope and ventilation relate to disease pressure, and harvest timing determines the trade-off between sugar, acidity and aroma.

For Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), the meaning of certification lies precisely here. It does not guarantee the same taste for every bottle, but confirms that its expression cannot be separated from this land. Standards do not speak for terroir, nor do they make choices for the winemaker; they merely require that no choice borrow the name of terroir while betraying the reality of terroir.

Leaving the vineyard, we came to the underground wine cellar in Maribor's old town. The long tunnels store vintage wines and also stories about labor, trade and city life. The cellar is not deliberately mysterious: it is both a space where citizens and visitors stop and gather, and it is connected to the outside world through pipes. Wine starts underground, reaches the ground, reaches the table, reaches distant places.

Whether growing or winemaking, "a long history" alone is not enough. The most respectable history lies in whether everything it created still has vitality today: whether it can still be shared and tasted, and whether it can still be redeemed by later generations. Time never automatically confers value; only time conscientiously carried forward by generation after generation does.

The Istrian Coast: From Terroir Expression to Regenerative Agriculture

We finally bid farewell to the Styrian mountains and drove toward the Adriatic Sea. After the longest stretch of this journey, we arrived at the Seča peninsula in Slovenian Istria. Sea breeze, saltpans and south-facing slopes together shape the light and scenery here. Thinking of Venice on the other side of the northern Adriatic, one cannot help but feel the vicissitudes of time.

Olive trees on continuous slopes overlook the calm blue sea and vast, neat saltpans. The farm owner told us that the saltpans are not only visually beautiful but also an indispensable part of the local microclimate. She believes this influence remains in the growth of the olive trees and the taste of the fruit: not only in native varieties represented by Istrska Belica, but also in introduced varieties such as Leccino. Together they constitute the local identity of the Istrian coastal production area and also its diversity.

The olive oil here has EU PDO status, meaning that between this small and refined production area and high-quality olive oil there is a relationship that must be protected. Beyond terroir, variety selection, harvest time, pressing speed and storage management are also part of the uniqueness of the production area. Origin has never meant mystifying the land; it means acknowledging the long-term mutual shaping between land, craft and people.

According to the farm owner, everything that happens in the grove determines whether the olives can reach the press healthy. Cover crops, herbs and beneficial plants provide habitat for insects, and wild vegetation is not easily cleared; organic waste from pruning and visits is composted or mulched back into the field; homemade fungi-dominant compost increases microbial activity; solar-powered pumps are used for irrigation, and water saving and erosion prevention are written into daily operations.

These practices may not seem dramatic, but they give "regenerative agriculture" a tangible meaning: it does not merely require causing a little less harm, but tries as much as possible to bring the relationships among soil, microorganisms, water, plants and animals back to life. Product quality is therefore no longer only the result of the last few hours in the pressing room; it is the health accumulated by the grove year after year.

When the farm owner helplessly spoke of how abnormally high temperatures affect that year's harvest and oil extraction, we habitually asked: "What are the solutions?" She smiled and shrugged: "Pray, next year will be better." This remark is not passive; instead, it left a deep impression on me. It acknowledges that agriculture is not an engineering project that can be completely controlled, and that humans must remain humble before nature. True sustainability is not stubbornly maintaining things as they are, nor forcibly transforming everything, but allowing the system to retain resilience amid change.

From the vegetable garden at the foothills of Pohorje to the vineyard slopes of Podravje; from the wine cellar of Maribor to the olive groves by the Istrian coast, what impressed me most was this: beneath a series of strict and complex certification standards, what emerged was not a uniform European agricultural template.

As a service provider, media professional and association member in China's food industry, I therefore rethought the value of certification and standards. It does not lie in dissolving the particular, nor in erasing boundaries; on the contrary, it lies in acknowledging differences, defining differences, and making these differences stand the test of time and the market. PDO safeguards irreplaceable links to production areas, while organic certification places production methods under environmental and ethical constraints. Together they form the basic framework of trust and jointly build the promise made by land, mountains and sea.

The promise is not a guarantee that every harvest will be abundant, that the climate will always be mild, or that labor will be free from risk.

What it promises is that as long as people are willing to take responsibility with restraint, patience and honesty, in every production, every choice and every standard, not seeking victory over the land but helping the land retain the nutrients to continue to be fertile, then our children and their children will always have a dependable world of infinite mountains and sea.

来源 | 糖酒快讯（ID：tjkx99）

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